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The Fashion Archives and Museum’s latest exhibit, (Re)Shaping the Body is now open to the public through November 21, 2023. The exhibit explores body modifying underwear and optical illusion tailoring to alter the shape of the human body to match the fashion ideal of different decades.
Corsets, bustles, cages and more will be on display, as well as fully mounted garments to showcase how the body was built up, altered or reduced over different centuries. Organized by body part, the objects chosen for the exhibit considers the human body literally from head to toe. The oldest item on display is a set of stays dating to ca. 1755-1765.
The director, Dr. Karin J. Bohleke, comments that “Christian Dior famously stated that without foundation, there is no fashion. The history of men’s and women’s fashions is indeed the story of the foundation garments essential to creating the appearance of a specific body type or attribute that rarely matches most potential wearers. This explores the hidden layers and tailoring efforts that literally engineer the body into a different shape. Corsetry, for example, is alive and well, only today we call it “shapewear,” or, more specifically, “Spanx.”
The exhibit will be open on Friday, June 2, from 12:30 to 2:30 for additional special hours beyond the established schedule.
Preparations are underway for the Fashion Archives and Museum’s forthcoming exhibit (Re)Shaping the Body. The exhibit explores engineered underpinnings and optical illusion tailoring to build up, alter, or reduce various parts of the body to align it with the current fashionable ideal of the moment. Corsets, bustles, cages and more will be on display, as well as fully mounted garments. Stays from the eighteenth century and even sleeve plumpers from the 1830s are included in the object list. Fans of different centuries will find much to enjoy.
Stay tuned to this website and social media for the exact opening date information.
The Fashion Archives & Museum is pleased to announce that its latest exhibit, Celebrating Creative Hands–Yesterday and Today is now open during regular operating hours. It is a first ever collaboration with the Lancaster Spinners and Weavers Guild. The exhibit combines guild members’ creations made using traditional techniques and historical examples of the same techniques from the museum’s permanent collection.
FA&M director, Dr. Karin Bohleke notes “Textile techniques of the past continue to thrive, and the Lancaster Spinners and Weavers are true artisans, bringing traditional practices into the twenty-first century. Viewers will enjoy viewing handspun linens and clothing dating back to the 1780s, as well as garments from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. This is the FA&M’s first partnership with the fiber arts community, and it certainly will not be the last.”
Handweaving is not the only fiber art highlighted in the exhibit: examples of quilting, embroidery, knitting, crochet, spinning, and tapestry illustrate over two hundred years of talented artisanal work. Examples of the necessary tools are also included.
A joint regional symposium hosted by the Mid-Atlantic and Southeastern regions of the Costume Society of America (CSA) will take place in conjunction with this exhibit on November 10 through 12. Anyone interested in attending should visit CSA’s website for program and registration information as plans develop (costumesocietyamerica.com).
Celebrating Creative Hands is open through November 22, 2022, but will be closed on July 4 and September 5 for the Independence and Labor Day holidays respectively.
This year, Shippensburg University celebrates its 150th anniversary, and the Fashion Archives & Museum will open a companion exhibit. “Remember, Celebrate, Thrive: 150 Years of Fashion at Shippensburg University” will open to the general public on Friday, October 22, in conjunction with Homecoming. To kick off the exhibit, the FA&M will be open for special additional hours, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on October 22 and 23.
“The Fashion Archives & Museum” houses many historic textiles and garments associated with the university’s history,” explains FA&M director Dr. Karin J. Bohleke. “Returning alumni, faculty, and staff might see a uniform or banner dating to their time on campus. Visitors from the general public will greatly enjoy seeing the historic fashions sported by athletes, students, professors, and staff and may recall similar styles from their own universities.” The oldest surviving graduation dress, from the class 1896, will be on display, as well as the historic gym uniforms women were required to wear that featured large black bloomers and wool shirts.
Regular operating hours will resume as of Monday, October 25. Thursday, December 9, is the last day the exhibit is open to the general public. In accordance with university policy as of August 18, masks are required in all indoor spaces, regardless of vaccination status.
The FA&M opened its newest exhibit on April 29 and is excited to welcome visitors to experience the first new exhibition since the start of the COVID-19 pandemic.
Clothed in Beauty: Recent Acquisitions of Shippensburg University Fashion Archives & Museum, features some of the most recent fascinating donations to the archives. It highlights pieces worn by men, women and children across various cultures including Native American and African American. Global fashions from Spain, Italy, China, Japan, Morocco, Afghanistan and England are also represented. The pieces in the collection range in creation from the eighteenth century to the twenty-first century.
“So many aspects of directing the Fashion Archives & Museum bring joy to my day, and seeing the fabulous garments that current owners, often descendants, are willing to donate is definitely one of them. This exhibit is a celebration of generous donations to the FA&M, selected here for their beauty, intricate construction, or simply their joyful embrace of exuberant color,” said Dr. Karin Bohleke, director of the Fashion Archives and Museum.
Masks and social distancing are required in the museum. The exhibit is open to groups of fewer than 15 people. For more information, please contact the museum. The exhibit runs through July 29, 2021.
The FA&M’s current exhibit, Fashionable Dances and Dancing Fashions, which opened in January, is available for viewing online as a video tour. In this time of social distancing, technology has made it possible for the FA&M’s display to come to visitor homes. The clothing in the exhibit dates from the 1810s through the 1970s, and additional paper ephemera from the early 1800s through the 1980s provides dynamic graphics and history of a favorite social pastime.
The original exhibit closing date of July 2 has been extended, but no new closing date has yet been set pending decisions from the appropriate state and university authorities.
In the meantime, please enjoy this virtual tour by clicking on or copying this link and pasting it into your preferred browser: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxW3eK3pJFE.
Students in Shippensburg University’s Theatre Arts program had the opportunity to study costume history in the Fashion Archives & Museum this spring semester. Prior to spring break, as an integral component to studying fashions of the past, the students explored different eighteenth-century hairstyles. “Too often,” the instructor Dr. Karin J. Bohleke explained, “women’s hair is reduced to the towering and exaggerated styles associated with the 1770s and 1780s that featured boats and other elaborate headpieces. But there were so many other options and the century featured a much broader evolution of looks and techniques.” Using the recent publication The American Duchess Guide to Eighteenth Century Beauty, students busily worked at recreating different styles—with elegant results. One student, Eliza Eames, brought in her sister as a willing model and recreated the soft, curled hairstyle of the 1790s that appears in a number of portraits by Elisabeth Vigée-LeBrun (see image below). The students unanimously agreed that the style was still eminently flattering and wearable today. They thoroughly enjoyed this hands-on experience, and of course, a towering feather adds an element of fun.
Inspired and excited by a presentation at the 2019 annual symposium of the Association of Academic Museums and Galleries (AAMG) that FA&M director Dr. Karin Bohleke attended with the FA&M Advisory Council President Robin Dolbin, Dr. Bohleke assigned her graduate costume Applied History class a real-life museum task: select artifacts to purchase for the permanent collection. Thanks to a combination of special donations and revenues from the sales of deaccessioned items, her students had a budget of $9,000 with which to work. With such a sum, it was entirely possible to purchase significant items to enhance the collection holdings.
During the fall 2019 class, the students assessed the existing holdings and consulted with Dr. Bohleke to define areas of weak representation and at the same time become aware of time periods or types of items that needed no further development. Armed with this knowledge and a list of reputable dealers, the class divided into smaller groups and ultimately each group presented its list of proposed purchases, justifying the choices with supporting arguments. The students then had to come to a consensus as a whole in the course of an evening’s debate.
The students finalized their choices, and Dr. Bohleke purchased the following items:
As is evident from the list, students placed their emphasis on early items that are less likely to arrive at the FA&M in the form of a donation. Their choices are especially important given that students in the early American history undergraduate classes build their final research web exhibit projects starting from artifacts from the FA&M collection. In fact, a number of the items listed above made their debut in student projects before the items were even catalogued.
In addition, a generous FA&M supporter stepped in and donated the necessary funds to purchase a pair of shoes associated with a wedding that took place in Kent, England, in 1780. To maximize the available funds still further, Titi Halle and her staff at Cora Ginsburg LLC extended a generous special discount when they learned of the project and fully supported the students’ learning experience.
This project is an example of the real-life museums tasks that students pursue in the FA&M, and it is a genuinely unique aspect of the programming. Regarding her experience, Nastassia Gantz commented, “The class had to think about whether or not an item could tell a story about an important moment in fashion history, be a stand-out piece among the rest of the collection, and whether we believed that people would be excited to come and view the item it on display in a future exhibit. I was able to gain a better understanding of how institutions acquire objects along with what the general decision-making process looks like, and I left the course feeling elated that a short gown that I found was actually chosen by the class to have a permanent home at the Fashion Archives.”
Another student, Courtney Smith, noted that in their excitement for the project, “Our group took the project a step further. In order to show how the garments we selected would fit into the museum’s collection, we designed an exhibit around them. The entire experience was fantastic. It taught us real-world skills that we will definitely use.”
Three Ship graduate students in the Applied History program had the opportunity to install eight mannequins in support of the Brandywine River Museum’s exhibit “Votes for Women: A Visual History.” The exhibit curator, Amanda Burdan, and the FA&M Director Dr. Karin Bohleke had already selected the outfits representing the suffragists during the design phase of the display preparations, and FA&M staff and volunteers had already performed all needed conservation. The final stages of the exhibit loan and installation were now in the hands of the graduate students under the supervision of Dr. Bohleke.
As an assignment for their independent study on museum exhibition installation, Cijianna “Ciji” Berry, Amanda Partner, and Martavis Washington dressed the mannequins. They learned how to adjust the fit through padding and to select appropriate underpinnings to achieve the proper period silhouette. This exhibit features mannequins from head to toe, meaning the students also added footwear, styled the mannequins’ hair, and finished the look with hats and gloves. Given that the mannequins sported purple hair, namely one of the official colors of the suffragist movement, the results were certainly dramatic. Then all of the outfits had to be undressed and packed for transport, the mannequins labeled, their hairstyles protected, and everything loaded into vehicles for transport to Chadds Ford, PA.
Dr. Bohleke and the students then spent January 24 at the Brandywine River Museum working with Ms. Burdan and the others. The mannequins’ outfits had been deliberately chosen to match those in period photos of suffragists, and the finished mannequins were positioned on the platforms near large graphics reproducing the original images. The Brandywine exhibit team welcomed the students as professional art handlers and were wonderful hosts. The final result featured two mannequins each in winter outerwear, cool summer whites, tailored walking suits, and driving gear. In a whimsical touch, the students added purple or gold gloves from the exhibit support materials, again to match the official colors of the suffragist movement.
In reflecting on this first real-life exhibition experience, Martavis Washington noted that the installation at Brandywine Museum was a “proud moment” and that “seeing the end result turn out as fantastic as it did was rewarding.” He was thrilled at the genuine, hands-on experience that the Fashion Archives provided him. Ciji Berry also greatly appreciated the real-life opportunity and found that dressing the mannequins and helping to create them by carving the bodies and styling the hair “provided skills that I may not have learned elsewhere. This experience also gave me the chance to meet others in the field with whom I hope to work in the future.” A visitor to the Brandywine exhibit wrote to Dr. Bohleke, commenting that the FA&M “did a fabulous job and deserves the credit.”
Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, “Votes for Women” is temporarily closed at the time of this publication. However, the exhibit’s time frame has been extended into the fall. Please check the Brandywine River Museum’s own website for reopening dates and schedule (www.brandywine.org).
Photo, below, from left to right: Cijianna Berry, Amanda Partner, Karin Bohleke, and Martavis Washington post in front the “tailored” mannequins. The suffragist sash is a surviving original on loan to the exhibit from another institution.
Dr. Lydia Edwards, author of How to Read a Dress (2017), has accepted the invitation to deliver the keynote address at the joint Costume Society of America Mid-Atlantic and Southeastern regional symposium to be held at Shippensburg University from October 11-14, 2018. Dr. Edwards’ keynote address is made possible from a generous grant from the estate of Pamela L. Kopp.
Dr. Edwards is a fashion historian with a special interest in women’s dress from the sixteenth through the early twentieth centuries. Her Ph.D. research focused on historical costuming in late nineteenth-century theatre, and this interest continues into her current research to consider notions of “accuracy,” historical interpretation and interpolation in extant garments, theatrical costume and works of art. She is passionate about making the study of dress history accessible to a wide audience and her book How to Read a Dress was described by The Fashion Studies Journal as “a welcome contribution to the literature, especially at a time when theoretical interpretations in fashion studies risk obscuring the garment itself.” Dr. Edwards lectures at Edith Cowan University in Perth, Australia, and teaches Costume History at the world acclaimed Western Australian Academy of Performing Arts (WAAPA). She is currently completing her second book, How to Read a Suit: A Guide to Changing Men’s Fashion from the 17th to the 20th Century, and is undertaking research into the representation of clothing in the works of expressionist painter, Chaim Soutine.
Co-chairs, Dr. Karin Bohleke and Colleen Callahan, look forward to Dr. Edwards’ contribution to the symposium’s theme, “Costume Across the Curriculum & into the Community.” Dr. Bohleke commented, “Both of Dr. Edwards’ books feature garments from the collection of the Fashion Archives & Museum of Shippensburg University, and bringing her to the campus is a natural outcome of long-time exchanges as her research progressed. It is also a special opportunity to share her work with her costume colleagues and the university community. The Mid-Atlantic region of the Costume Society of America has emphasized nurturing emerging scholars as its professional development theme for the past few years, and thus inviting a fresh voice in the early stages of her career can serve as an inspiration.” Ms. Callahan further added “The Costume Society of America is a global organization with an international outlook. Shippensburg University fosters awareness of world cultures, and Dr. Edwards’ work the Fashion Archives collection illustrates the university’s own international profile.”
The symposium will be held October 11-14, 2018 and is in conjunction with the Fashion Archive & Museum’s exhibit, “The Fashions of Fiction: From Pamela to Gatsby.” Information regarding schedule and registration, for both Costume Society of America member and non-members, will be forthcoming in early August. A block of rooms has already been reserved at a special conference rate of $88 per night, breakfast included, at the Courtyard Marriott in Shippensburg. The symposium hotel is immediately adjacent to campus and located at 503 Newburg Road, Shippensburg, PA 17257. Rooms are already available for reservations at (717) 477-0680 or online at Book your group rate for Costume Society of America.